The book was ahead of the game, she agrees.
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Then I called it tahina because an Egyptian friend of mine called it tahina sauce… not a lot of people knew about tahini then.” The friend – a late cousin of celebrated food writer Claudia Roden – also taught Nigella how to get the seeds out of a pomegranate and so is responsible for a generation of us who joyfully smack the fruit with a wooden spoon while spraying the kitchen with carmine juices. “There are still things I cook all the time, like the recipe for lamb chops with sauce. Narrating the audiobook of How to Eat recently gave Nigella an opportunity to reflect on what has – and hasn’t – changed in the 25 years since its publication. It’s much easier to clean but also you get out of that lovely pulp.” Changing tastes I’m just really bad at it because I’m too impatient.” For the peeled cloves, it’s then a meeting with her trusty Microplane grater. “Every now and then I think about getting more gadgets and have to stop myself.” There’s her trusty mezzaluna (the curved two-handled knife used to chop herbs and nuts), and a rubber tube garlic peeler: “Oh my God, they’re so good,” she confides, because “one of the jobs I don’t like in the kitchen is peeling garlic. But, like most cooks, she worries about accumulating too much kitchen equipment. “I steam things now, which I didn’t then,” she says.
Like many of us, Nigella has come to love the cooking method that preserves more nutrients than boiling. Since then, she admits, “I don’t know that the way I cook has changed enormously,” but there is one thing that she has discovered: “once you steam a new potato you will never, ever boil one again.” The TV series Nigella Bites aired the following year, introducing the nation to barefoot entertaining, kitchen-table suppers rather than dinner parties, and huge pomegranate-strewn sharing platters instead of twee, individual salmon mousses.
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It’s hard to believe that Nigella Lawson – who is sitting beside me in a Hackney restaurant, luminescent of skin and looking cool and elegant in a violet tea dress – has been on the food scene since 1998 when her seminal book How to Eat was published, bringing with it a fresh sensuality combined with modern pragmatism.
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